Short answer: Level 1 (a regular 120-volt outlet) adds about 5 miles of range per hour. Level 2 (240 volts) adds about 25 miles per hour, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. The electricity costs about the same either way, so the real question is whether Level 1 can keep up with your driving overnight.
The three charging levels
| Level 1 | Level 2 | DC fast charging | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Voltage | 120 V | 240 V (home) | Direct current |
| Typical power | 1.9 kW | 7.2 kW (30 A home unit) | Up to 500 kW |
| Range added | ~5 miles per hour | ~25 miles per hour | ~100–200+ miles per 30 min |
| Where | Any household outlet | Garage / driveway, public | Highway stations |
Can Level 1 cover your commute?
Here’s how long each level needs to put back a day’s driving:
| Miles driven per day | Level 1 needs | Level 2 needs |
|---|---|---|
| 20 miles | 4 hours | 0.8 hours |
| 40 miles | 8 hours | 1.6 hours |
| 60 miles | 12 hours | 2.4 hours |
| 80 miles | 16 hours | 3.2 hours |
If you park for 10–12 hours overnight and drive under about 40 miles a day, Level 1 can genuinely be enough, and it costs nothing to install. Above that, or if two drivers share one outlet, Level 2 starts to earn its price.
Does Level 2 cost less per mile?
Not meaningfully. You pay the same price per kWh, and the EPA efficiency figures used across this site are measured from the wall outlet. Level 1 sessions run longer, so a little more energy goes to keeping the car’s electronics awake, but the difference is small next to your rate plan. The money question is the installation cost, not the electricity.
Our take
- Start with Level 1 for a few weeks if your daily driving is modest. You’ll learn your real needs for free.
- Choose Level 2 if you drive more than ~40 miles a day, have a large-battery truck or SUV, or want to use a short off-peak window. A TOU plan with a 5-hour cheap window needs Level 2 speed to fill the battery.
- Either way, check what charging will cost you per month in the calculator.
Bigger vehicles change the answer
The ~5 miles per hour figure assumes an efficient car. Range added per hour is simply charging power divided by how much energy the vehicle uses per mile, so a heavy truck gains far fewer miles from the same outlet:
| Vehicle | kWh/100 mi (EPA) | Level 1: miles per hour | Level 1: hours for 40 mi | Level 2: miles per hour | Level 2: hours for 40 mi |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tesla Model Y | 27.5 | 5.2 mi | 7.6 h | 28 mi | 1.4 h |
| Chevrolet Equinox EV | 32.6 | 4.4 mi | 9.1 h | 24 mi | 1.7 h |
| Ford F-150 Lightning | 47.9 | 3.0 mi | 13.3 h | 16 mi | 2.5 h |
For the F-150 Lightning, a 40-mile day takes 13 hours on a regular outlet. That’s longer than most people are parked overnight. So the 40-miles-a-day rule of thumb works for a compact SUV, but for a full-size electric truck the honest limit is closer to 30–36 miles a day with 10–12 hours plugged in.
Using a regular outlet safely
- Plug the charging cord straight into the wall. Car makers and the cord’s manual tell you not to use extension cords or adapters.
- Ideally the outlet is on its own circuit. If the breaker trips or the plug gets warm, stop and call an electrician.
- Many cords let you choose 8 A or 12 A. Use the lower setting on older wiring until it has been checked.
The middle option many people miss
If there’s already a 240-volt outlet in the garage, such as one for a dryer or welder, a plug-in Level 2 cord can use it without new wiring. Some cars ship with an adapter cord for this. An electrician should confirm the circuit’s rating first, because it decides the charging speed.
Cold weather
In winter the battery has to be warmed before it accepts a full charge, and part of a slow Level 1 session goes to that heat instead of range. If you live where winters are hard, expect Level 1 to add noticeably fewer miles per night from December to February. That’s when owners most often decide to upgrade.
Sources: AFDC: charging levels. Updated October 18, 2026. Estimates for comparison, not advice. How we calculate · Report an error.